Why Most Period Underwear Feels Wrong

Why Most Period Underwear Feels Wrong

One day, while testing a pair of period underwear from a well-known brand, I felt an itch so sharp along the side seam that I took it off mid-period. Not because it failed — it absorbed well and didn’t leak — but because wearing it was unbearable. The design was polished, even sophisticated, yet the gusset was so wide and stiff it disrupted every movement. Made from non-breathable polyamide, it trapped heat exactly where the body needs air most. As a lingerie designer, my question wasn’t whether it worked. It was whether anyone on the design team had actually worn it for a full cycle — or even a full afternoon — before launching it.

When Period Underwear Works — But Still Feels Wrong

Most period underwear is not uncomfortable by accident.
It is uncomfortable by design.

The Design Assumption That Broke the Category

The category has largely been built around a single assumption: that menstruation is a constant, heavy, on-off state that must be controlled at all times. Designing from this premise, brands attempt to embed the logic of the most absorbent sanitary pads directly into underwear. The result is predictable. Many period underwear products behave more like medical equipment than garments intended to be worn against the body — quietly asking you to organise your outfit, posture, and day around them.

This assumption is flawed.

Menstrual flow is episodic, variable, and for most people, low to medium for the majority of the cycle. Designing for the most extreme scenario distorts everything else, much like wearing a winter coat indoors just in case it snows.

What Happens When You Design for Fear Instead of the Body

In practice, this shows up in three ways:

  • Bulk
    Layers are stacked excessively and the gusset is widened as a precaution, pushing the garment closer to a diaper than underwear — functional, perhaps, but not something you forget you’re wearing.
  • Heat
    To maximise leak resistance, many brands rely on hydrophobic synthetic fabrics. These materials trap moisture and heat, creating a microclimate no one asked for.
  • Silhouette
    High-waisted, black, utility-driven shapes dominate the category — not because bodies suddenly changed, but because it’s easier to hide bulk than redesign it.

What Lingerie Design Teaches That Period Underwear Forgot

After years designing lingerie in large-scale, high-quality factories, I learned how fabric choice, seam placement, and proportion directly affect how a body moves and feels. Much of what I saw in period underwear violated basic lingerie principles: gussets that are unnecessarily wide, rigid leak-proof panels wrapping the body, and materials chosen for visible function rather than comfort — as if discomfort were simply part of the deal.

Underwear First. Protection Second.

If period blood is not a constant gushing state, underwear should not be designed as if it is.

When I couldn’t find period underwear I was genuinely happy to wear, I decided to design it from scratch.

I started with real underwear standards: fit, softness, and multiple absorbency options — not maximum absorbency at all costs. Protection was integrated where it belongs: in the gusset, slightly larger than a regular one, but never exaggerated for reassurance theatre. We designed based on how people actually bleed, not just on the heaviest days. Every product was tested by real users before launch — people with lives, commutes, and opinions.

When we introduced this category in China, we called it period underwear, not sanitary underwear. There are already enough euphemisms around women’s bodies. We also chose a 100% cotton gusset for those who need the comfort and breathability of natural fibres — something many brands quietly abandon once absorbency starts looking impressive on paper.

What We Refused to Compromise On

Just as importantly, we set clear limits:

  • We didn’t maximise absorbency at the cost of comfort.
  • We didn’t pretend one product fits every body or every day.
  • We didn’t design for invisibility through shame.

How to Choose Period Underwear That Actually Feels Good

When choosing period care, it’s worth remembering that not every cycle day needs the same solution. Comfort is not a bonus feature. It is fundamental.

Period care should not feel like a compromise you tolerate.

Emma Aiyin Chen

About Emma Aiyin Chen

Impact Entrepreneur, Strategic Designer, founder of @relief.wear

At Relief, a purpose-driven brand reimagining period care through sustainability and social justice, Emma wears many hats—leading brand vision, product design, and systemic advocacy to create a future where menstruation is no longer a source of shame or waste.

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